What Is Niacinamide? Skin Tone, Wrinkles, Pores & How to Use It

November 6, 2026 OBARASOTARO

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 commonly used in skincare products, including toners, serums, lotions and moisturisers. It has also been studied in skin science, particularly in research involving skin tone, the outer skin barrier and sebum.

You may have noticed skincare products labelled “5% niacinamide” or “10% niacinamide”. But what exactly do those percentages mean?

And why does niacinamide appear so often in conversations about dark spots, fine lines, wrinkles and visible pores?

If you are new to skincare ingredients, it can be difficult to know where to begin. One product may highlight a particular ingredient, while another focuses on texture, hydration or a combination of ingredients.

Imagine finding two serums on the same shelf: one containing 5% niacinamide and another containing 10%. It might seem obvious to choose the higher number, but skincare is rarely that simple.

The overall formulation, other moisturising ingredients, texture and instructions for use are all worth considering.

It is also important to distinguish between scientific research on an ingredient and the intended use of an individual cosmetic product.

In this guide, we will explore what niacinamide is, how it relates to research on skin tone, wrinkles and sebum, what different concentrations mean, and how it fits into a practical skincare routine.

Along the way, you will discover a few surprising facts about your skin and learn how to read a skincare label with more confidence.

What You Will Learn

Discover the connection between niacinamide and vitamin B3, explore the science behind skin tone, wrinkles and pores, and compare 2%, 5% and 10% niacinamide formulas. We will also look at ceramides, vitamin C, retinol, morning and evening routines, and practical skincare choices for your 40s and 50s.

1. What Is Niacinamide? Understanding Its Connection to Vitamin B3

Niacinamide, also known as nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3.

When you hear the words “vitamin B3”, you might think of food and nutrition rather than facial serums or moisturisers.

Vitamin B3 is an essential nutrient found in everyday foods such as meat, fish and mushrooms. It plays an important role in normal human nutrition.

Niacinamide is also used as an ingredient in cosmetic formulations. However, consuming a nutrient in food and applying a cosmetic product to the skin are different uses, with different conditions and purposes.

One of niacinamide's practical characteristics is that it dissolves in water.

This makes it suitable for use in many types of skincare formulations, from lightweight toners and serums to lotions and creams.

Although niacinamide has become particularly familiar to skincare shoppers in recent years, it is not a newly discovered ingredient.

Scientists were publishing research on niacinamide and aspects of skin biology, including the outer skin layer and pigmentation, in the early 2000s.

So rather than thinking of niacinamide as a completely new beauty discovery, it may be more accurate to see it as a long-studied ingredient that has become increasingly familiar through modern skincare products.

Beauty Fact ① | Is Niacinamide Related to Nicotine?

The alternative name “nicotinamide” may sound surprisingly similar to nicotine, the substance associated with tobacco. However, nicotinamide and nicotine are different chemical compounds. The word “niacin” comes from the older chemical name nicotinic acid. Learning where these names came from reveals an interesting connection between the history of chemistry and the ingredients we see on cosmetic labels today.

If you read more about vitamin B3, you may also come across the abbreviation NAD.

NAD stands for nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide, a coenzyme involved in many biochemical reactions, including those associated with cellular energy metabolism.

When the body processes nutrients from food, many carefully coordinated chemical reactions take place. NAD participates in some of these reactions.

Niacinamide is connected to the body's normal metabolism of NAD, which is why it is also of interest in biochemistry.

This describes a natural biological process. It should not be interpreted as a statement about what happens when a particular niacinamide cosmetic is applied to the skin.

Another useful distinction is the difference between a cosmetic ingredient and a finished product.

A single ingredient can appear in many formulations, yet those products may have different intended purposes, usage instructions and regulatory classifications.

For example, Japan distinguishes between ordinary cosmetics and quasi-drugs under its regulatory system. The types of claims permitted for a finished product depend on its classification and, where applicable, its approval.

This is a useful reminder that the ingredient name on a label is only one part of the information worth reading.

2. Niacinamide, Dark Spots, Wrinkles and Pores: What Does Skin Science Tell Us?

Search for niacinamide online and you will quickly encounter three familiar skincare topics: dark spots, wrinkles and visible pores.

These concerns are often mentioned together, but they involve different aspects of the skin.

Dark spots are associated with pigmentation. Wrinkles involve factors such as skin structure, facial movement and ageing. The appearance of pores can be influenced by sebum, skin texture and other characteristics.

Understanding those differences makes skincare information easier to interpret.

First, let us look at dark spots and skin pigmentation.

Skin colour is influenced partly by a pigment called melanin.

Melanin is produced by specialised cells known as melanocytes. It is packaged within tiny structures called melanosomes, which can be transferred to surrounding skin cells.

That may sound complicated, but imagine a small factory and delivery system.

The melanocyte is the factory, melanin is the pigment being made, and the melanosome is the container that carries it.

Skin scientists study not only how pigment is produced, but also how pigment-containing structures are transferred between cells.

In 2002, Hakozaki and colleagues published research examining niacinamide in relation to melanosome transfer and the appearance of skin pigmentation.

This research helps explain why niacinamide appears in scientific discussions about skin tone.

It is also worth remembering that “dark spots” is a broad everyday expression. Sun-related pigmentation, post-inflammatory marks and melasma do not necessarily have the same underlying causes.

If a pigmented mark changes rapidly in size, shape or colour, or otherwise seems unusual, it is sensible to seek advice from a qualified healthcare professional.

Beauty Fact ② | Melanin Helps Determine More Than Skin Colour

Melanin is also involved in the colour of our hair and eyes. Two well-known types are eumelanin and pheomelanin, which contribute to different patterns of pigmentation. Although melanin is often mentioned in conversations about dark spots, it is actually part of the science behind several features of our appearance.

Next, what about fine lines and wrinkles?

You may notice small lines around your eyes or mouth and immediately associate them with getting older.

In reality, the appearance of wrinkles can involve several factors, including dryness, repeated facial movements, ultraviolet exposure and changes in skin structure over time.

For example, fine lines that become more noticeable during a dry winter are not necessarily the same as expression lines that appear when you smile.

In 2005, Bissett and colleagues published a clinical study investigating a niacinamide-containing formulation and aspects of ageing facial skin appearance.

The researchers compared test formulations under controlled conditions, including an approach that evaluated different sides of the face.

This is one example of how scientists investigate skin appearance using carefully selected measurements and study designs.

Such studies are useful for understanding an ingredient's research history. When choosing a cosmetic, however, the finished product's own description and directions for use remain important.

Beauty Fact ③ | Why Do Researchers Compare Two Different Formulas?

Cosmetic studies sometimes compare a formula containing a particular ingredient with a similar formula that does not contain it. Keeping other conditions as consistent as possible helps researchers understand the differences being measured. When reading about a skincare study, asking “What was it compared with?” can be just as useful as asking how many people participated.

Finally, let us talk about pores and sebum.

Have you ever noticed that pores around your nose appear different from those on your cheeks?

Sebum and the material that collects within pores can influence their appearance, while skin texture and other factors also play a part.

Sebum is an oily substance produced by sebaceous glands. It is a normal part of the skin's biology, and the amount produced varies across different areas of the face.

The forehead and nose, for example, tend to be oilier than some other facial areas.

In 2006, Draelos and colleagues published a study investigating a 2% niacinamide formulation and measurements related to facial sebum.

An important distinction is that measuring sebum is not the same as measuring pore size.

Because visible pores have more than one contributing factor, it is helpful to consider gentle cleansing and appropriate moisturising as part of everyday skincare rather than focusing on a single ingredient.

Beauty Fact ④ | Do Pores Open with Heat and Close with Cold?

You may have heard that a warm towel opens your pores while cold water closes them. Pores, however, do not work like tiny doors that open and shut whenever the temperature changes. Warmth or cold can influence how the skin surface looks and feels, but that is different from pores physically opening and closing at will. Gentle cleansing is generally a more useful everyday habit than exposing your face to extreme temperatures.

Dark spots, wrinkles and visible pores are familiar skincare topics, but the science behind each one is different.

Understanding the biological processes involved can make it easier to read about cosmetic ingredients without confusing general research with the characteristics of a particular product.

3. What Percentage of Niacinamide Is Best? Comparing 2%, 5% and 10%

When browsing niacinamide serums, you may see labels showing 2%, 5%, 10% or even 20% niacinamide.

Does a larger number automatically mean a better skincare product?

There is no single niacinamide percentage that is automatically the best choice for everyone. The concentration tells you how much niacinamide is included in a formulation, but it does not tell you everything about the finished product.

Imagine comparing a 5% serum and a 10% serum. The second contains a higher proportion of niacinamide, but the two products may also differ in moisturising ingredients, texture, fragrance and directions for use.

To understand the numbers, let us start with a simple comparison.

Concentration	What to Know	How to Think About It
2%	A concentration used in published skin research.	One option when comparing products with relatively lower stated concentrations.
5%	A concentration also investigated in clinical research.	A useful reference point when comparing labelled formulations.
10%	A concentration found in some higher-strength cosmetic formulas.	Consider the full formulation, instructions and personal skin compatibility.

The main point is that these numbers describe concentration. They are not official beginner, intermediate and advanced skincare categories.

A 10% product is not automatically preferable to a 5% product, just as a 5% product is not automatically more suitable than a 2% product.

So how can you make a practical choice?

Three Everyday Skincare Scenarios

If you are new to niacinamide: Look for a product with clear instructions that fits comfortably into your existing skincare routine, rather than choosing solely by percentage.

If dryness is your main concern: Consider the wider formulation, including moisturising ingredients such as glycerin or ceramides, as well as how the product feels on your skin.

If you already use several serums: Check how a new product fits with your current routine. Introducing one new product at a time may make it easier to assess how your skin responds.

These examples show why your daily routine and personal preferences can be just as useful as the percentage on a label.

Someone who prefers a lightweight serum may enjoy a different texture from someone who favours a richer moisturiser.

Another helpful skill is learning how to read an ingredient list.

In many cosmetic labelling systems, ingredients are generally listed according to their concentration, with specific exceptions for ingredients present at low levels and certain colourants. The exact rules depend on the market in which a product is sold.

For that reason, seeing niacinamide near the beginning of an ingredient list does not necessarily tell you its precise percentage.

Some brands publish their niacinamide concentrations, while others do not. If a percentage is not provided, the manufacturer's directions and description of the finished product are useful places to start.

And when trying a new cosmetic, follow the manufacturer's instructions and pay attention to how your skin responds.

The more familiar you become with ingredient lists, textures and product labels, the easier it becomes to compare skincare products with confidence.

In the next chapter, we will explore another well-known skincare ingredient, ceramides, and discover why the structure of the skin's outermost layer is so interesting.

4. Niacinamide vs Ceramides: Understanding Skin Hydration and the Skin Barrier

When reading skincare ingredient lists, you may notice that niacinamide and ceramides often appear in conversations about moisturising products.

Although both are familiar names in skincare, they are actually very different types of substances.

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3, while ceramides are a type of lipid naturally found in the skin.

To understand why ceramides are so frequently mentioned in moisturising skincare, it helps to take a closer look at the outermost layer of the skin.

This layer is called the stratum corneum, sometimes referred to as the outer skin barrier.

Although it is remarkably thin, the stratum corneum has an important role. It helps protect the body from the outside environment and limits excessive water loss.

Scientists often explain its structure using a simple comparison: a brick wall.

Imagine the skin cells as bricks and the lipids between them as mortar.

The bricks represent corneocytes, or mature cells in the stratum corneum. The mortar represents the intercellular lipids that occupy the spaces between them.

These lipids include ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids.

Just as bricks and mortar work together to form a wall, skin cells and lipids form the organised structure of the outer skin layer.

So where does niacinamide enter the picture?

In 2000, Tanno and colleagues published research investigating nicotinamide, another name for niacinamide, in relation to the formation of ceramides and other skin lipids.

The study explored aspects of skin biology using laboratory methods and measurements involving the skin barrier.

This provides an interesting scientific connection between niacinamide and the outer skin layer. As with other ingredient research, the findings should be understood in the context of the study rather than taken as a description of every finished cosmetic product.

Beauty Fact ⑤ | The Outer Layer of Your Skin Contains Cells Without Nuclei

Most cells in the human body contain a nucleus that houses their genetic material. Mature cells in the outermost skin layer are different: during their development, they lose their nuclei. These specialised cells form layers across the skin surface. It is a fascinating example of how the structure of a cell changes as it takes on a particular role in the body.

Have you ever noticed that your skin feels different in winter compared with summer, even when your skincare routine has not changed?

Your cheeks might feel comfortable during humid weather but noticeably drier when indoor heating is running.

The condition of the outer skin layer is only one part of the picture. Temperature, humidity and everyday cleansing habits can also influence how your skin feels.

Moisturising products often contain several ingredients with different characteristics.

For example, glycerin and hyaluronic acid are commonly used because of their affinity for water. Squalane is an oily ingredient frequently used in formulations designed to protect the skin and help prevent dryness.

Some people prefer a lightweight lotion that absorbs quickly, while others enjoy the richer texture of a cream.

Neither preference is unusual. Different cosmetic textures suit different routines, climates and personal tastes.

Once you become familiar with names such as niacinamide, ceramides, glycerin and squalane, an ingredient list becomes much more than a collection of unfamiliar words.

It becomes a little guide to how a skincare product has been formulated.

5. Can You Use Niacinamide with Vitamin C and Retinol? Morning and Evening Skincare

If you already use a vitamin C serum or a product containing retinol, you may wonder whether niacinamide can fit into the same skincare routine.

You might even have encountered online advice suggesting that niacinamide and vitamin C should never be used together.

The short answer is that these ingredients are not automatically incompatible simply because of their names.

However, compatibility also depends on the finished products, their formulations, their instructions and how your skin responds.

Let's start with vitamin C.

In skincare, vitamin C can appear in different forms, including ascorbic acid and a variety of vitamin C derivatives.

Two products labelled as containing vitamin C may therefore use different ingredients.

The behaviour of cosmetic ingredients can also depend on factors such as concentration, temperature, pH and storage conditions.

This is why combining ingredients within a carefully designed formulation is not necessarily the same as layering two separate products at home.

If you already use a vitamin C serum and would like to introduce a niacinamide product, check the directions for both products before combining them.

Introducing new products one at a time can also make it easier to understand how they fit into your routine.

Beauty Fact ⑥ | Why Are Some Vitamin C Serums Sold in Dark Bottles?

Some formulations containing ascorbic acid are packaged in dark glass bottles or containers designed to limit exposure to air. These choices may help protect ingredients that are sensitive to certain environmental conditions, including light and oxygen. However, vitamin C ingredients vary in their properties, and packaging colour alone cannot tell you the overall quality or stability of a skincare product.

What about niacinamide and retinol?

Retinol is a vitamin A-related ingredient. Unlike water-soluble niacinamide, retinol is fat-soluble.

Some retinol products are intended for evening use, while others include specific instructions about how frequently they should be applied.

This is because retinol and related retinoids can sometimes be associated with dryness, redness or irritation.

There are cosmetic formulations that contain both niacinamide and retinol. If you are using separate products, however, it is important to follow their individual directions.

For example, some people choose to use different products at different times of the day. Nevertheless, separating products into morning and evening routines does not guarantee that skin irritation will be avoided.

If you are pregnant or planning a pregnancy, avoid retinoid skincare products, including retinol, and consult a qualified healthcare professional about suitable skincare choices.

Should niacinamide be used in the morning or at night?

Niacinamide can be found in cosmetic products designed for morning use, evening use or both.

In a typical routine, a serum may be applied after cleansing and a toner, followed by a moisturising lotion or cream.

Here is a simple example of how a skincare routine may be organised.

Morning and Evening Skincare Routine

Morning: Cleanser → Toner → Serum → Moisturiser → Sunscreen

Evening: Makeup remover if needed → Cleanser → Toner → Serum → Moisturiser

This is only a general example. Your own routine may be simpler, and not every step or product is necessary for everyone.

Some moisturisers already contain niacinamide, while others combine several ingredients in one product. Always follow the instructions provided by the manufacturer.

One particularly important part of a daytime routine is sun protection.

The sun emits different types of ultraviolet radiation, including UVA and UVB, which interact with the skin in different ways.

The American Academy of Dermatology recommends a broad-spectrum, water-resistant sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher.

When spending time outdoors, follow the sunscreen's reapplication instructions and make use of shade, protective clothing and a hat.

Beauty Fact ⑦ | Can UV Rays Reach You Through a Window?

Ordinary window glass blocks most UVB radiation, but some UVA radiation can pass through it. The amount depends on the type of glass and any protective coatings. That means sitting indoors does not always mean avoiding ultraviolet exposure entirely. If you spend long periods beside a sunny window, curtains or UV-protective window films may be worth considering.

When introducing any new skincare product, remember that your skin may respond differently from someone else's.

Follow the recommended amount and frequency of use. If redness, itching or stinging occurs, stop using the product and seek professional advice if the symptoms continue.

6. Choosing Niacinamide Skincare in Your 40s and 50s: Making Sense of Ingredient Labels

Have you ever noticed that a skincare product you loved ten years ago feels a little different on your skin today?

Perhaps a lightweight lotion once felt like enough, but now you find yourself reaching for a cream during colder months.

Or maybe your cheeks sometimes feel dry while your forehead and nose still become shiny during the day.

These experiences are familiar to many women in their 40s and 50s, although there is no single skincare pattern that applies to everyone.

The way skin feels can be influenced by age, climate, humidity, sun exposure, cleansing habits and other aspects of daily life.

Hormonal changes around menopause can also be associated with changes in the skin, but individual experiences vary considerably.

That is why choosing skincare based on age alone can be misleading.

You do not automatically need a 5% niacinamide product in your 40s or a 10% product in your 50s.

A more practical approach is to consider your current routine, your skin's condition and the type of product you enjoy using.

First, think about texture and your daily schedule.

If your mornings are busy, you may prefer a lightweight serum or lotion that feels comfortable under sunscreen and makeup.

In the evening, you might enjoy taking a little more time to apply a moisturising cream.

Some people prefer a short routine with only a few products. Others enjoy using a toner, serum and moisturiser as separate steps.

There is no need to make skincare unnecessarily complicated. A routine that suits your lifestyle is often easier to maintain.

Next, explore the other ingredients in the formulation.

If a product contains niacinamide, take a moment to see what else is listed.

You may recognise names such as glycerin, ceramides, hyaluronic acid or squalane from the earlier chapters.

Understanding these ingredient categories can help you appreciate why moisturisers, serums and lotions have different textures and formulations.

Also check the product description, directions for use and any instructions about how much to apply.

Finally, think about fragrance and personal preference.

Some people enjoy a gently scented skincare product, while others prefer something without added fragrance.

Neither preference is more sophisticated or more appropriate for a particular age.

However, naturally derived ingredients can still cause reactions in some people. If your skin is sensitive or you have reacted to fragrances before, check the full ingredient list carefully.

Beauty Fact ⑧ | Why Can a Fragrance-Free Product Still Have a Smell?

Have you ever opened a product labelled “fragrance-free” and noticed that it still has a faint scent? Fragrance-free generally means that fragrance has not been added for the purpose of scenting the product. It does not necessarily mean that every raw ingredient is completely odourless. Some cosmetic ingredients naturally have their own characteristic smells, which may remain noticeable in the finished formulation.

Online reviews can also be useful when comparing skincare products.

However, one person may describe a serum as lightweight while another finds the same product pleasantly rich.

Differences in skin condition, the amount applied, the surrounding climate and personal preference can all influence the experience.

Reviews are therefore best treated as individual experiences rather than universal rules.

You might also find it helpful to compare product textures, packaging and instructions, especially when trying a new ingredient for the first time.

Once you know what niacinamide is, the ingredient list on your favourite moisturiser may start to look much more interesting.

Instead of focusing only on popular ingredient names or high percentages, you can begin to explore how different parts of a formulation fit together.

Skincare is something you use regularly, so comfort, simplicity and a routine you genuinely enjoy are worth considering.

And sometimes, learning just one new ingredient is enough to change how you look at an entire skincare shelf.

Frequently Asked Questions About Niacinamide

Here are a few practical questions about storing and using niacinamide skincare products that are worth knowing beyond the ingredient basics.

Q1. Should I keep my niacinamide serum in the fridge?

Follow the storage instructions provided by the manufacturer. Refrigeration is not automatically necessary unless the product specifically requires it. As a general rule, avoid excessive heat, direct sunlight and unsuitable storage conditions.

Q2. Can I use a niacinamide serum and a sheet mask on the same day?

Some products can be used within the same routine. However, sheet masks may contain a range of ingredients, and their recommended application times can vary. Check the directions for both products and avoid leaving a mask on for longer than instructed.

Q3. Why do little white flakes sometimes appear when I layer skincare products?

This is often called product pilling. It can happen when ingredients in different formulations form small particles on the surface of the skin. The amount applied, application technique and compatibility between products may all contribute. Try following the recommended quantities and allowing one layer to settle before applying the next.

Q4. What should I do if my serum changes colour or develops an unusual smell?

If you notice a significant change in colour, smell or consistency compared with when the product was new, stop using it and contact the manufacturer or retailer for advice. Always follow any instructions about shelf life and use after opening.

Conclusion: Understanding Niacinamide Makes Skincare Choices More Interesting

Niacinamide is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3 found in many types of skincare products, including serums, lotions and moisturisers.

It has a long history in skin science, with research exploring topics such as pigmentation, the outer skin layer and facial sebum.

If you are comparing 2%, 5% and 10% niacinamide products, remember that concentration is only one part of the picture. The wider formulation, directions for use and your own preferences matter too.

Everyday habits such as gentle cleansing, appropriate moisturising and sun protection also remain important parts of skincare.

The next time you pick up a skincare product, take a closer look at its ingredient list. You might discover that the familiar bottle on your bathroom shelf contains a whole world of interesting science.

References and Further Reading

This article draws on original scientific research and published guidance from dermatology organisations. The studies are included to explain the scientific background of niacinamide and skin biology. They should not be interpreted as claims about the performance of individual commercially available cosmetic products.

1. Tanno O, et al. (2000)

Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier.
British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531.
View the study on PubMed

2. Hakozaki T, et al. (2002)

The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer.
British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31.
View the study on PubMed

3. Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. (2005)

Niacinamide: A B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance.
Dermatologic Surgery, 31(7 Pt 2), 860–865.
View the study on PubMed

4. Draelos ZD, Matsubara A, Smiles K. (2006)

The effect of 2% niacinamide on facial sebum production.
Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy, 8(2), 96–101.
View the study on PubMed

5. American Academy of Dermatology Association

Retinoid or retinol?
Read the dermatology guidance

6. American Academy of Dermatology Association

Sunscreen FAQs.
Read the sunscreen guidance